Quck answer
Cashmere is a luxury textile made from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. It is expensive due to the limited supply of cashmere and the labor-intensive process of obtaining and processing the fibers. Cashmere goats only produce a small amount of the fine undercoat each year, and the fibers must be carefully combed and sorted by hand. The fibers are then cleaned, spun, and woven into fabric. The high demand for cashmere, particularly in the fashion industry, also contributes to its high price.
Wild Animals
It can take up to four cashmere goats, like the adorable little one shown in the picture, to produce enough fibers for a single cashmere sweater. Photography by Ivan Dupont/Getty Images
Wendy Pieh, a goat farmer in Bremen, Maine, loves the unique personalities of the goats she cares for most. “They’re capricious,” she says. “That comes from the Latin word ‘caprine,’ which means ‘goat.’ They’re playful, affectionate, and love to climb.”
The goats that Pieh looks after are also one of the sources of a highly precious product for humans: cashmere. Yes, your favorite, most comfortable, and probably most costly sweater is made from the fur of the cashmere goat. Once you understand the process of producing a cashmere sweater, you might appreciate its value.
Goats are among at least 11 animals that produce wool. The list includes sheep, rabbits, and llamas. There are many types of cashmere goats, and there are many farms, factories, and companies worldwide that use different methods to produce cashmere. The Pashmina goats, which are found in the high-altitude regions of northern and western Tibet, are believed to have been the first goats used by humans to keep warm. The goats have a soft, dense undercoat that can withstand extremely low temperatures, as low as minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit (minus 40 degrees Celsius).
The wool of these male and female goats, which was favored by the British royalty, was eventually processed in Kashmir, northern India, and that’s how cashmere got its name.
With human assistance, various bloodlines of cashmere goats have spread worldwide. Australia has a particular breed that produces luxuriously soft fibers. North American cashmere goats can be found in colder regions of the United States and Canada.
Farming Fur
Pieh and her husband, Peter Goth, own Springtide Farm in North America. They have been running the farm since 1997. Pieh gave Goth 11 goats as a birthday present to help clear their land; it has been a learning experience ever since.
Pieh estimates that there are between 200 to 300 cashmere goat farms in North America. Most cashmere goat farms in the United States are small, with fewer than 60 goats, according to Pieh, who is also the president of the Cashmere Goat Association (CGA), a non-profit organization whose website claims to bring together breeders, fiber artists, and others interested in these charming animals and the fiber they grow.
The cashmere goats begin to naturally shed their winter wool, and production starts on the farms in March and April (spring). Because of production loss and the high cost of weeding out the valuable downy undercoat, few U.S. farms shear the cashmere goats. Instead, most farms hand-comb the wool. This means workers, often the farm owners themselves, sit with each animal and slowly tease out the fur that creates the fine wool for cashmere. Pieh says that she spends up to an hour and a half with each goat, and each goat has a different personality.
“When you look at these goats, you see the long, draping fur,” Pieh says. “That’s the guard hair. The cashmere hair is under that. The crimp in cashmere is three-dimensional, and that’s what makes cashmere so incredibly soft.”
Cashmere is a luxury fabric that is produced from the soft, fine undercoat of cashmere goats. However, not all cashmere is created equal. An average goat produces only 3-4 ounces of cashmere, but some goats can produce up to 6 ounces. Due to this, it takes about four goats to make enough fiber for just one cashmere sweater. Cashmere goats that produce quality fur can live up to 10-15 years of age, but when they are no longer producing, they are commonly harvested for their meat.
To ensure high-quality cashmere, farmers like Pieh send samples of the fur for testing to labs in the U.S. that follow the CGA standards. These standards require consistency in the fiber, with each follicle being at least 1.25 inches in length and no bigger than 19 microns in diameter. Cashmere that does not meet these standards can cause problems in the end product, such as pilling.
However, problems still exist in the cashmere industry. The demand for cashmere exceeds how much goats can produce each year, and it is difficult for consumers to determine where the cashmere they are buying comes from and how the goats are treated. The China cashmere industry is notorious for inhumane production, with some farms even restricting goats’ diets to save on production costs. This affects the quality of the cashmere, making it finer and more brittle.
To ensure you are buying high-quality cashmere, it is recommended to buy directly from the source or to choose carefully. Cashmere is a scarcity, with it consisting of only about 1% of a goat’s total wool production for apparel. Therefore, the price of the fabric and sweaters should reflect this. However, even for farmers like Pieh, it can be difficult to tell if the cashmere is the real deal, as she has even been fooled by acrylic sweaters and poor-quality cashmere samples.
Pieh remembers a certain shawl that caught their eye. Despite its shine, they could tell it wasn’t made of cashmere. “This is really nice,” they said, “but it’s not cashmere.” Interestingly, if wool, even cashmere, makes you itch, it’s likely due to the uneven thickness of the fibers. Cashmere, with a standard diameter no bigger than 19 microns, is much finer than the standard 28 micron thickness of wool.
FAQ
1. What is cashmere and where does it come from?
Cashmere is a type of wool that comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, which are primarily found in Mongolia, China, and Iran. The fibers are finer and softer than regular wool, making it highly sought after for its luxurious feel.
2. Why is cashmere more expensive than regular wool?
Cashmere goats produce a very small amount of fibers each year, which makes it a rare and limited resource. Additionally, the process of harvesting and processing these fibers is more labor-intensive and time-consuming than that of regular wool.
3. What makes cashmere so soft?
The fibers of cashmere are naturally soft and lightweight due to their fine diameter and the structure of the fibers. This gives cashmere its signature softness and luxurious feel.
4. How is cashmere harvested?
Cashmere is harvested by combing the undercoat of cashmere goats during their natural shedding season in the spring. The fibers are then sorted by hand to remove any coarse hairs or debris.
5. What is the highest quality of cashmere?
The highest quality of cashmere comes from the underbelly of the cashmere goat, which is the softest and finest part of the coat. This type of cashmere is known as “Grade A” or “Inner Mongolia” cashmere.
6. How is cashmere processed and spun into yarn?
After being sorted, the fibers are washed, carded, and spun into yarn. This process is typically done by hand to ensure the highest quality and consistency.
7. What factors affect the price of cashmere?
The price of cashmere is affected by several factors, including the quality of the fibers, the region where it was harvested, the demand for cashmere, and the cost of labor for processing and manufacturing.
8. How should I care for my cashmere products?
Cashmere should be washed by hand or dry cleaned to avoid damaging the fibers. It should be stored folded and not hung to prevent stretching or distortion.
9. What are some common uses for cashmere?
Cashmere is commonly used to make high-end clothing items such as sweaters, scarves, and hats. It is also used in home decor items like blankets and throws.
10. Can cashmere be blended with other fibers?
Yes, cashmere can be blended with other fibers such as silk or cotton to add strength and durability to the final product.
11. Why should I invest in cashmere products?
Cashmere products are an investment due to their high quality and durability. They are also versatile and can be worn in a variety of settings, making them a timeless addition to any wardrobe.
12. What are some ethical concerns surrounding cashmere production?
There are some ethical concerns surrounding cashmere production, including the treatment of cashmere goats and the impact of overgrazing on the environment. It is important to purchase cashmere from reputable sources that prioritize animal welfare and sustainability.
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